Robyn and Birgit are the creative duo behind London based jewellery studio ’Folde.’ Folde means ‘Earth’ in Old English, a name perfectly reflecting the pair’s respect for the natural world which is central to the brand. 

The two designers have uniquely chosen to use Highland Horn, a by-product of the meat-industry, to create their jewellery. This beautifully textured material would otherwise be disposed of, but is instead repurposed into elegant brooches, earrings and hair slides.

It was quite by chance that Birgit and Robyn came across the material which has become a core component of their practice.

During her degree, Birgit purchased several sheets of horn from a factory in Scotland which was closing down. It wasn’t until much later that she found a use for this interesting material.

“In the pandemic I rediscovered the horn sheets and was immediately captivated by the beautiful patterns in the raw material. This is when I decided to contact Robyn via email to ask if she would be interested in a collaboration.

“When we started working with horn, we truly fell in love with its unique properties. Horn is incredibly versatile: it is naturally strong, as cows use it for protection, but it can also become fully flexible when heated. Often referred to as "nature's plastic," it shares similar thermo-responsive qualities. However, from our perspective, its beauty sets it apart.

“Horn grows in layers, creating intricate patterns and details that make each piece unique. These layers reflect the cow’s life—its diet, its environment, even the trees it encountered. Each piece of horn carries a history, making it an incredibly valuable material. Unfortunately, it is often overlooked and treated as waste, but we see it as something truly special.”

Folde designs are elegant yet playful, with twisting silver forms set against minimalistic but textured pieces of horn - wearing a Folde designs is truly akin to wearing a piece of art.

This distinctive Folde aesthetic is the result of the successfully amalgamation of both creative’s styles:

“It is a true blend of our styles, yet it has grown into something uniquely our own, shaped by collaboration at every step.”

“For our first collection, we began by sharing research and references, which revealed recurring themes of movement and line drawing. Inspired by artists like Isamu Noguchi and Joan Miró, we aimed to create jewellery that captured a sense of dance between horn and silver. These ideas took shape through collaborative line drawings, which we then transformed into wax models, later cast in silver. This hands-on approach allowed us to bring our vision together cohesively.

“Our second collection took a more focused approach, drawing inspiration from Ikebana—the Japanese art of flower arranging—and ancient artefacts adorned with inlaid mother-of-pearl. Guided by themes of touch and composition, we aimed to create a collection that achieves a harmonious and refined balance between horn and silver.

“Our design process often feels like creating a collage—combining our individual ideas to form something unexpected. Working together opens up new directions we might not have explored on our own.”

Folde is a testament to the benefits of creative collaboration and the pair credit ‘mutual respect valuing each other's contributions, and embracing the joy of working together’ for creating a foundation for this successful collaboration. Both designers also feel enriched by this process.

“Working together opens up new directions we might not have explored on our own.”

“Our approach thrives on bringing different strengths and experiences to the table, allowing us to trust each other's expertise and skill sets. We naturally take the lead on different aspects of the work, creating a dynamic that not only strengthens our collaboration but also allows us to continually learn from one another.”

Birgit and Robyn met whilst studying at Central Saint Martins, which Birgit says marked the true beginning of her creative journey.

Robyn also credits her parents influence for establishing her passion for the arts.

“I was taken to antiques fairs with my parents a lot as a child, and grew up surrounded by old objects whose detail and fine craftsmanship had a lasting impact on me. I also had a wonderful GCSE art teacher who recommended the CSM jewellery degree show and I fell in love with everything I saw. The jewellery was expressive, intriguing and carefully crafted and I knew from that point on that this was the path I was meant to be on.”

But not everything on the artists’ journey was straight forward. When Robyn and Birgit first started working with horn, they quickly realised how little information was available to them on the craft. Resources on horn working online were scarce and it took along time to find anything with detail in books. 

“Eventually, we came across the national charity Heritage Crafts, which had listed horn working as an endangered craft, with only a small number of practitioners still active. This explained why we had struggled to find traditional knowledge and guidance on the subject.”

Instead of following the conventional learning path, Birgit and Robyn drew from their experience of the jewellery design process.

“We experimented with jewellery techniques, applying both traditional and modern methods. For example, we tried water-jet cutting horn—a process that completely failed —but every trial helped us understand the material better. Gradually, through testing and adjusting our approaches, and by piecing together bits of information from various sources, we refined our methods.

“Eventually, we connected with a few makers experienced in horn working, who reassured us that our processes were correct. This was a huge relief, as for a long time, we weren’t sure whether we could consider our work ‘horn working’.”

Far from gatekeeping, and underlining their passion for this rare craft, the creative duo have instead now generously shared their resources on horn working in an online technical journal to make learning about horn working more accessible for others, and hopefully contribute to keeping this endangered craft alive. 

“Sharing our findings in a technical journal felt important. Given the scarcity of resources, we wanted to contribute to preserving this endangered craft and help others explore its potential.”

Alongside the challenges of learning an endangered craft, as modern artisans there comes the challenge of running a business in addition to their individual practices which sometimes provides a difficult balance. 

“However, we take things step by step, focusing on what is achievable each day, and aim to avoid overloading ourselves.”

Through their discovery and revival of this technically challenging but deeply rewarding craft, a host of exciting opportunities have opened up for Robyn and Birgit.

“Running our business brings us countless highlights, but one of the most rewarding aspects are the incredible people we get to meet along the way. From creatives and designers to farmers, charities, and educational organisations, we’re continually inspired by those who share our passion for reviving overlooked crafts and materials. This connection to a community that values what others might dismiss is deeply fulfilling.

“Every time we work with the material, we uncover something new, which fuels our creativity.”

“The farmers we’ve encountered have a profound commitment to animal welfare, and our collaboration with organisations like Heritage Crafts has been invaluable. Their support through funding has been instrumental, and their recent invitation to showcase our work at Eltham Palace during their Award Ceremony was a true highlight.

“Then, of course, there’s the material itself. Every time we work with it, we uncover something new, which fuels our creativity. This ongoing discovery is one of the most inspiring and rewarding parts of being a maker / designer. It’s what keeps us learning, growing, and excited for what comes next.”

Over the past year, Birgit and Robyn have been focusing on finding opportunities, such as residences, to give them the time and resources to develop Folde further.

“Through this process, we’ve been able to dive deeper into the history and traditions of horn working, discovering specific techniques and connecting with academics who explore the material’s cultural significance.

“Looking ahead, we would love to establish direct connections with those who specialise in this area of horn working. By collaborating and sharing knowledge, we hope to create new, distinctive designs that are rich in history and storytelling.”

It’s exciting to see craftspeople such as Robyn and Birgit who have such passion for advancing and honing their craft of horn making and making it more accessible to others. It may still be endangered but through Folde and the efforts of Birgit and Robyn, horn making as been given a new (and beautiful) lease of life. 

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